By Nycole Sariol Change can be stifling. Oftentimes, it can induce a sense of anguish, unavoidable doubt, and a medley of “what ifs.” But on the knife-and-fork scene, as far as Miami is concerned, change is welcomed with open arms – Bocce Bar’s newest addition, Chef Daniel Tackett can certainly attest to that. At its inception late of last year, the Midtown grub-hub, responsible for awakening all six senses by way of traditional Italian cuisine, was first steered by non-other than the 305’s most beloved restaurateur of Sugarcane Raw Bar and Grill, Chef Timon Balloo. And when news came that Balloo would be handing his second “child” over to the then New York-based chef, Daniel Tackett, to helm the kitchen, questions pertaining to the inconclusive outcome of the eight-month old restaurant and its menus were bound to ensue. Though his departure from Bocce to focus full-time on his first love, Sugarcane, came as bit of a surprise, Balloo, alongside partners, Samba Brands Management, chose the right man with the same size foot to fill his shoes. And while Tackett may be the new-kid-on-the-block with only eight weeks of being apart of Miami’s food scene underneath his belt, by no means is he a novice to the art of Italian cuisine. The now executive chef has sizable bragging rights, as former sous chef under the guidance of James Beard Award Winner Michael White at places like Alto and seafood haven, Marea, amid the unruly streets of New York City. Tackett also has the liberty to humbly boast about adding Scarpetta New York to his dense repertoire. But contrary to popular belief, Chef Tackett is no stranger to cooking up Italian signatures in South Florida. In fact, Tackett spent one whole summer lending a deft hand in the kitchen of Giovanni Rocchio at Valentino’s Cucina Italiana in Fort Lauderdale, earning him South Florida street cred amongst Miami’s best. And since being dubbed big-man-in-charge at Bocce, Tackett now has free range to integrate his past to coincide seamlessly with his present, tweaking-up Bocce’s menu – namely, towards more “seafood-centric” offerings. Change was inevitable upon Tackett’s arrival, yet he still wanted to embrace Balloo’s ideology of simplicity, keeping true to authentic Italian culture and tradition. However, just because simplicity is the inferred style of cooking under Tackett’s reign, his dishes are nowhere near meager. The first area he sought to jump start on the menu was dinner with flavor- laden dishes like the Gnocchetti Sardi Al Negro, a plate ingratiated by black squid-ink, durum-wheat pasta, enriched with tomato-grazed baby octopus and calamari, and bedashed with bread crumbs and basil, which may have been imbued by his time spent at Marea. Chef Tackett says, “It’s kind of that answer to Fra Diavolo – a good depth of flavor from cooking the octopus in the tomato, which also helps tenderizes.” His next area of transformation: “We’re gearing up for the lunch menu changes.” A rally of tasting and testing has been undergoing in order to summon exceptional newcomers to his menu. And though no specifics have been disclosed thus far, experimentation guarantees a menu of candidates beyond reproach. The lunch and dinner menus maybe receiving ongoing facelifts, but there is one particular attribute at Bocce Bar Tackett thinks is perfect just the way it is: the establishment’s design. “Right when you walk up to it, the olive tree in front makes a statement,” Chef Daniel speaks of Bocce’s most unique import hailing all the way from Italy. “I love how the tiles are broken up with the concrete in the flooring, the tall ceilings, giving the space a little bit of an industrial look,” he continues on with enamored words. “Character is definitely there, naturally.” Artisanal nuances awash the restaurant like exposed wooden beams, mismatched chairs, and polished wooden pews. But perhaps the trait that sets the tone at Bocce the most is, of course, the bocce-ball court, where sober and befuddled patrons alike find their only source of authentic, Italian entertainment in Miami, paying homage to the Ancient Roman predecessor of modern-day bowling. But Chef Daniel is being kept entertained with a new game of his own: the wood oven. “I’m learning to play with it; that’s new for me,” he admits, while charred-smoke from the oven in the back now wafts in front of his face. Uncharted machinery can be daunting to crack, but Chef Daniel fears not of the fiery cave – in fact, he embraces it. “We’re actually cooking with beets and the ash that’s left over,” he says. “We let the beet cook through those hot embers of the ash, so it gives it a very subtle, smoky flavor.” Mastering how to tame and play nice with a scorching wood oven is one thing, but composing a thriving restaurant within Midtown’s epicenter and keeping it that way, is a whole different bocce- ball game. “With restaurants, we grow, we change, we evolve, and we progress. It’s like a living breathing thing – like a child,” Tackett emphasizes on nursing his pride and joy from infancy to adulthood. “We have to constantly educate ourselves, educate our staff, learn through trial and error, and listen to what the public wants.” Located at 3252 Northeast 1st Avenue Miami, Fl 33137 Tel: (786) 245-6211 Click here to view post on the Sept/Oct 2014 issue.
